Relatively long session. In
class – theoretical and
general
explanation and some practice, in three steps: 1. around the tables
explanation/discussion, 2. shared screen demo, 3. you try. Later, youÕll get ÒTop 10 To Do NowÓ
sheets that will have you straight-forwardly apply the solutions, regardless of
the theory behind them.
To
be able to perform all the following functions in Windows Vista, youÕll have to
be logged on to the Administrator account; I may have to connect to your
computers one at a time to quickly to do so.
Each of these 5 will be addressed in detail here, with the
context, and theoretical explanations covered. This will help you understand what you should be doing and
why. But if you find any of it
hard to follow, thatÕs ok, because at the end of this document will be a ÒTop
10Ó list of straight-forward things you should do – regardless of your
understanding.
The following chart summarizes the
categories, the necessity for each operating system (including Mac, just for comparison's sake), and the free and for
purchase software application of choice. The (v) symbol indicates that it is not necessary, but may be done.
ÒThe Big 5 Maintenance Util.Ó |
Needed? |
Free |
For Purchase |
||
|
XP |
Vista & Windows 7
|
(Mac)
|
|
|
1. Registry/Directory Repair |
|
v |
(v)
|
XP/Vista: Glary Util. |
XP/Vista: Norton 360 Mac: DiskWarrior |
2. Virus Scanning |
v |
v |
|
XP/Vista: Avira or Avast |
XP/Vista: Norton 360 Mac: Sophos |
3. Ad-ware/Spyware |
|
(v)
|
x |
XP: Ad-aware (Vista-Windows Defender
incl.) |
|
4. Firewall Protection |
|
(v)
|
(v)
|
XP: PC Tools Firewall (Vista: Windows Firewall
incl.) |
|
5. Defragmentation |
v
|
(v)
|
x |
(Tool of both XP and Vista) |
|
Once every couple of months you should check out the health
of your computerÕs hard drive.
There are two main areas that need to be addressed: 1) the Òthe registryÓ
and 2) all other files. Most
importantly, the computerÕs ÒregistryÓ (or "directory") needs to be regularly
checked and repaired – the registry is the part of the hard drive keeps
track of all the other files. Even
a minor error in the registry/directory can result in a file not being able to
be found - this is a big problem, which can cause a freeze or a crash. More occasionally, all the files on the computer, not just the registry/directory
should be examined to check for minor errors.
Though you can run these applications just like any other,
they work best if they are run from a disk other than your main startup hard
drive; the most thorough checking occurs if you can start up the computer from
another drive, or from the registry checking CD itself. To start a PC up from a CD/DVD, hold
F12 upon start-up.
You can use a registry/directory checker once every couple of months to nip problems in the bud; and you can also use these programs as a diagnostic tool when you experience problems.
A virus is a program passed on to you from another computer via the Internet, a flash stick, or a CD etc., which is programmed to screw up your computer somehow.
Viruses are mainly a Windows PC concern, but not too many years ago there used to be several viruses for Macs out there, and it could very well happen again. Part of the reason for this is that there are a lot less Macs out there than PCs, and so there are less Mac viruses, but part of it is that Macs are very much more secure. Still, though this is in the Windows only section, just to be sure, you should have antivirus software running on your Mac as well.
Everyone with a Windows PC should
– and probably does - have good virus scanning software running on their
computer. But you need to make
sure you have full protection selected. Also crucially, you should be automatically
checking for new virus definitions at least daily. Avast (actually programmed in the Czech Republic) is a good free choice for virus scanning, and all of the big security software companies, like Symantec and McAfee offer for-pay programs.
There is lots of ÒmalwareÓ that you have to protect your PC against. ÒAd-wareÓ and ÒspywareÓ (as opposed to Òanti-spywareÓ) is software that somehow makes it into your computer, and has the intent of keeping track of what you do and/or stealing information. A firewall is a good first line of defense (see next section), but a lot of malware will probably still get through. Most of these kinds of programs wonÕt actually cause your computer harm, but they will clog up and slow down your computer; many remain constantly in memory. XP is lacking a good malware component, but Windows Vista has a pretty good utility that addresses this issue: itÕs called Windows Defender, and is found in the Security Center. Meantime three of the best third-party applications to deal with malware are ÒAd AwareÓ, ÒZone AlarmÓ and cCleaner; they can be found at download.com in the category ÒSecurity & SpywareÓ. You could also check the websites of other bigger security companies like Symantec, McAfee, and AVG.
Good firewalls prevent your computer from being hacked into. Whereas viruses and spyware get into your computer via files you open or download, hacking is where your computer is directly accessed by a remote user/computer without your consent or knowledge. By hacking your computer, the hacker will be able to steal information such as passwords and financial records. The Windows XP firewall is not enough; you should get another firewall application from one of the big security software companies such as Symantec. The Vista or Windows 7 Firewall should be good enough without additional third-party products, but it can't hurt to enable those to, if you have them as part of an overall security package from Symantec or McAfee etc. To make Firewall exceptions in Vista, go to Control panel, Security, Windows Firewall, click ÒAllow a program through Window FirewallÓ, and click the Exceptions tab. But note that a firewall is only useful if you use it all the time; never turn it off, and only make an exception for a particular site if it is unquestionably trustworthy, such as www.Microsoft.com or web.isp.cz. YouÕll note that the biggest hole in your defenses is if you let Frostwire be allowed through your firewall.
As your hard drive becomes full, files become more and more fragmented. This process happens naturally, but if thereÕs too much fragmentation, it can slow down your computer, since the hard drive has to work harder and harder to piece together files when they are read. (An analogy that sort of works here is going a long time without cleaning the kitchen – it gets harder and harder to find things, and groups of things.) A ÒdefragÓ utility will take all of the pieces of each file and put them back together again as a contiguous area of memory on the hard drive.
To de-fragment in Windows, right-click on the drive,
and go to Properties, Defrag. Only
follow through with the defragmentation process if, after clicking the
ÒAnalyzeÓ button, Windows suggests that you should
defragment. With Windows a couple
of times a year should be enough; one reason why, take note, is that that occasionally de-fragmenting can cause
problems. So you always should back-up your important files before de-fragmenting in Windows.
In Vista, itÕs a right-click on the drive, Properties,
Tools, Defragment. You should then
choose a regular schedule time; once a month should be fine.
Note that defragmentation often takes quite a while. It would be best to let it run
overnight. And, do not interrupt it before itÕs
finished – you may even have to disable sleep/hibernate mode while
defragmenting.
(Just for your information, on Macs de-fragmentation (called
Òoptimization) is done automatically, so thereÕs no need to do it manually.)
With Windows systems,
a quick way to check most of the above is Ok is to navigate to the Windows
Security Center and make sure all categories are highlighted green. (In Vista, Control Panel, Security,
Security Center. In Windows,
Control Panels, Security Center.)
The above "Big 5" maintenance points will help guard your PC against viruses/malware/hacking, and miscellaneous file issues. But there is another thing that often causes Windows PCs to not work properly, and this is when there is a conflict between one or more applications. This is due in large part to the sharing of certain libraries and files, which is a common practice with PC applications.
So in this case, you will need to take things back to better times, when everything was working fine. There are three general approaches; take them one at a time in the order in which they are given here:
If after you install a new application you have problems you
didn’t have before, it’s likely a result of the new application. (This is most often a Windows, rather
than a Mac problem – Mac applications are most often safely
“encapsulated”.) So, on Windows
machines, simply go to Control Panels, Add/Remove Programs.
ii. Rolling Back Drivers @@@
It is possible that it’s the drivers of a
recently installed application or device that are causing the problem, so it is
possible to locate them and remove them. Go Control Panel, System, Hardware, Device Manager, right-click open
properties, click on the Drivers tab, and un-install the driver you suspect of
causing a problem. You may even be able to do this without uninstalling the application in question, though it may not be able to do all that it was able to before.
iii. Restoring the System @@@
In Windows, rather than uninstalling an entire application, or deleting individual drivers, you can go back in time to when your computer was working well, by using the System Restore capability. This is actually not that hard to do. From Accessories, System Tools, select System Restore, and click on a bold date back when things were ok.
iv. Software
Downloading Can Be Problematic. @@
Even before you have to deal with these kinds of problems, be aware that the more software
you have on your Windows computer, the more likely you will have un-wanted conflicts
with other applications. So sticking
to reliable companies and legal software is better than downloading a bunch of
little-known apps. Lots of little
free task bar apps can be fun, and useful, but you download and use them at
your own risk. Completely
un-install any you suspect are causing problems.
You need to keep your computerÕs operating system, as well as key applications as up-to-date as you can. In the Windows ÒSecurity CenterÓ, make sure ÒautomaticÓ is selected, and make sure that you regularly re-start your computer, so that the new patches can be installed. With Vista youÕll know there are new updates to be installed by seeing the Òsecurity centerÓ icon on the Shut-down button. Meantime, whenever applications notify you that an up-date is available, get it. But since some applications will not prompt you when up-dates are available, if a particular application is not working well, you should check on the companyÕs website for the latest up-dates and patches.
ii. Scheduling All of the AboveAll of
the above measures need to be performed regularly. Try, if you can, to schedule all maintenance
automatically. If you have a
maintenance suite such as Norton 360, it should be easy to set it up to run its
utilities automatically, and regularly.
Alternatively, in Windows, you can use the System tool called Scheduler
to regularly schedule the launching of the above utilities, every time you
start up the computer, for example.
Go to Accessories, System Tools, Scheduler. And donÕt forget that youÕll definitely want to
automatically update virus definitions for your anti-virus software every
day.
Quitting applications when you’re done with them will help
conserve RAM memory, but you should also make a point of having lots of RAM to
start with. Installing new RAM is
easy, and now (2011) it’s relatively cheap. A total of 512, or 768 MB of RAM is probably about right if
you often run several applications at the same time with Windows XP; 2 GB is
recommended for Vista. And if you
are into gaming, or video and audio editing, you should get even more.
Often big electronics shops at malls will have RAM, but it
would be better to find a small IT specialist shop run by a friendly
neighborhood Computer Geek; there’s one across from DatArt, in Sestka Mall, at
the top of Evropska. Note that
rather than add RAM to a laptop, you’ll probably have to replace it, since
there’s not much room for expansion slots in a laptop. Though, unlike a Mac laptop, opening up and replacing RAM is actually usually possible with a PC. With a PC desktop computer, you could even more
likely replace the RAM yourself; you would get the right kind of RAM, with the
right speed, by taking your present RAM out and showing it to the
shopkeeper. But, then again, why
risk damaging something in the process of upgrading your RAM; it may be just as
well to pay someone who knows what they are doing.
To see how much RAM you have in a Mac, click on the blue
apple in the upper-left-hand corner of the screen, and select “About this
Mac”. And on Windows machines, in
the My Computer window, under System Tasks, click “View System Information”,
and you’ll see the amount of RAM listed in the General tab, under Computer.
- part 1: Delete Files
As with a Mac, or any hard drive based computer, it's not the size of the hard drive, rather it's the amount of free space which can limit its speed, and cause it to freeze. So the same advice regarding transfer of large files applies. One thing to mention though, is that with PC desktop computers, there's actually probably more of a likelihood that you have more than one hard drive anyway. In which case, you should make the primary hard drive (probably the C drive) as free of big multimedia files as possible.
-part 2: Use
Windows Disk Quota to limit hard drive fullness @@
With Windows only, when you right-click on your hard drive, and go to Properties, you can limit how full your hard drive can get by clicking the Quota tab. Set the maximum number of GB you will allow your computer to get; pick a number that is around 80 or 90% of how big you know your hard drive is.
For such optimizers and other utilities in the Windows world, log onto www.download.com and search through the “Utilities and Drivers” category. But always be very cautious picking and downloading utilities, and stick to reliable downloading portals such as downloa.com. And remember that the more applications you load onto your computer, whether they are good or bad, the greater the chances of applications conflicting.
In spite of your best efforts, it is possible that your
computer will have problems. If
it’s your hard drive that crashes, you will doubtlessly lose data, though it is
sometimes possible to restore some data by taking it to a computer repair
shop. But one way or the other,
you should be backing up your hard drive regularly. There are several destinations to
choose from for your backups: you could create an extra hard drive partition at the time you purchase your computer*,
you could purchase an extra hard drive,
you could simply burn CDs & DVDs,
or use on-line back-up. On-line backup is similar to on-line storage of photos and music on
sites like Picasa and Facebook, only you do it for all your important files,
not just media files.
An easy low-tech route would be burning back-up CDs or DVDs. This is fine as long as you remember to do it. So best of all would be to have a backup utility - as is included in most maintenance suites (like Norton 360) - prompt you, or even automate the process. Doing it this way, you may find it most convenient to keep all your most important stuff up in one folder that you’ll back up - you can sub-divide that folder as you wish. Note that Blue-ray disks have even greater storage capacity than DVDs, if you’ll be backing up big files like videos, and have access to that kind of drive.